Seville - Camping Villsom
Because of wrong instructions given in the Alan Rogers guide, (the exit from the NIV was given as 553 when it should have been 555), it took us some time to find the site, notwithstanding the efforts of our Satnav.
However, having driven through monsoon like conditions, we eventually pitched up in this city centre site, even though the city concerned, Seville, was 10 kilometres away. The wind howled and the rain poured all night, and every now and then, a seed from one of the trees dropped on to our camper roof which sounded like a gun going off. The weather in the morning had not improved so we wrapped up accordingly and took a taxi to Seville. This, I believe, was a costly error as the fare was 25 euros, but we did at least arrive dry, close to the cathedral, our main reason for visiting Seville.
Seville Cathedral
We had to pay an entrance fee (7 euros each), and then went through the turnstile to the shop. The admission desk, turnstile and shop are in a separate building adjoined to the main body of the cathedral. I bought two books, one on the Cathedral itself and another on Seville generally. This was money well spent, but we found out afterwards, that we could have had an audio receiver which gave a commentary in English on all the artworks and chapels
I am almost at a loss to find words to describe the magnificence of this cathedral. Around the FIVE naves, are countless small chapels, each housing a stunning work of art. There is a small display case announcing proudly that Seville Cathedral holds the world record for the footprint of the building covering the largest number of square metres. Indeed, looking round at the cathedral, one is overwhelmed with its enormity, astonished at the size of the huge organ decorated with countless thousands of wooden carvings, and amazed at the sight of Christopher Columbus’s tomb. The box containing his remains is borne aloft by four larger than life sized carriers. They are dressed in the manner of his time and appear to be walking forward, their stone clothes giving the impression of flapping in the breeze. There is some controversy regarding the remains as they have travelled back and forth across the Atlantic Ocean, so there was doubt as to whether the bones interred where in fact, Columbus’s. DNA tests were duly carried out and confirm that they are similar to his brother’s remains, also interred in the cathedral, so it would appear that the controversy has been settled.
There is another larger than life statue of the Virgin in solid silver to one side of the main nave, but then over the main altar is the most amazing reredos I have ever seen, and I have seen a large number of them. It is covered in gold, and I am reliably informed, houses over 1000 carved figures. It tells the story of Christ’s life from the meeting of Anna and Joachim at the gates of Jerusalem. (These legendary figures are reputed to have been the parents of St. Anne, mother of the Virgin.) The meeting at the gate is a reference to the fact that until then, St Anne had been barren. Joachim was therefore unable to sacrifice at the temple due to the fact that he was childless and therefore not permitted in Jewish law. Having been humiliated at the temple, he left Jerusalem to wander in the desert in prayer. St Anne met him at the gate to tell him she was pregnant and that the child would be a girl who would find favour in the sight of God. The little tableaux within the reredos go on to tell the story of the annunciation right through to the resurrection. The whole is topped by a small calvary.
After spending about two hours in the Cathedral, we braved the pouring rain to find lunch in one of the many restaurants scattered round the cathedral. After lunch we walked round to the Alcazar.
The Alcazar
This is a small palace built by the moors and saved from destruction by a Spanish monarch who wanted it for his own dwelling. At the entrance is a dedication to this king praising a famous victory. In Arabic, above this dedication, is the statement that.. ‘There is no victor but Allah.’ It is a credit to the monarch that this statement has been permitted to remain, and proof that Islam and Christianity were not always enemies.
This building is now home to the Spanish royal family when they visit Seville, and one can see why. There are many beautiful gardens with fountains and ponds surrounding the building, and one comes across surprising little courtyards which lend an air of tranquillity to a very busy place. Even though it is early April, there were still many visitors to this amazing little gem.
Each room opened into another, or led to a quiet airy courtyard. When it was possible to listen, the sound of birds singing and water playing in the fountains delighted once’s senses as too did the smell of orange blossom and other perfumes. The main buildings had covered but open walkways, like cloisters, along the front of them, held up by the most graceful marble columns in different colours.
We set off back to the campsite in the evening and decided to take the bus, as we did not want to fork out about 25 euros. It was still pouring with rain. We first of all turned right by the cathedral when we should have turned left, and after about half an hour’s walking, we discovered our error. We then turned round, walked back the way we came, all the time consulting our map which had been given to us at the campsite. We crossed a very busy junction, taking our lives in our hands and wading through standing water, and stopped to consult the map again, only to find that it had taken wings and flown away! However, Michael saved the day by remembering the name of the avenue where we should catch the bus and after locating this, we had a stroke of luck (we were about due one!) the right bus was at the terminal and we boarded. This was where our luck ran out! The bus driver must have been related to Alonso as he drove back to the site at breakneck speed whilst his passengers hung on for dear life. I shall write to the Spanish bus company and the Catholic church when I get back to England to suggest they put a priest on this chap’s busses to handle the large number people anxious to make their peace with God. We got back safely, though wet through to our skins and made preparations to leave for Granada the next day.
Granada
As we could barely see to drive and the rain had continued unabated, worse perhaps than yesterday, we decided to give Granada a miss, and press on to La Manga.
(A drive of 650 kilometres)
