Europe in a motorhome

title-4053618

2008-04-16T20:07:48+02:00

Into France at last.

From Andorra we travelled to La Jonquera, a border town between Spain and France which is once again stuffed full of duty free goods.

Before leaving Spain, we decided to 'go the pretty way' and instructed our satnav to find an alternative route to the sensible one she had mapped out for us. This route took us through the pyrenees, as we are so glad to have travelled this route as the views on the journey were quite breathtaking. So were some of the bends! We stopped on our way in a lay-by and enjoyed lunch looking down into a deep valley. It was interesting to note that spring had not yet arrived up there and the trees were still bare. As we got further and further towards sea level, the trees became greener.

We stopped at La Jonquera to pick up a few things and then queued for ages to get through to the French border. As a confirmed Francophile, it felt really good to be able to understand road signs and order wine which I knew I would enjoy.

We are now staying at Camping Les Galletes near Argeles-sur-Mer.

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Camping La Manga del Mar Menor

2008-04-16T19:59:24+02:00

Camping La Manga del Mar Menor

This was a very nice campsite but very large and one needed bicycles just to get around the site. The disabled facilities were the best I’ve seen. Everywhere had a ramp suitable for push or wheelchairs, and it would have been possible for a wheelchair user to get right on to the beach as the open air terrace of the restaurant and bar had a small concrete ramp which led directly to the beach which was of hard wet sand. The site also had the most comprehensive supermarket containing everything to gladden the hearts of the brits. (During the winter, the site has a ninety percent British occupancy.) One could buy anything from British sliced bread, through to newspapers, printed in Spain the same day, together with paper backs and magazines.

We had a few bike rides and dinner at the restaurant which consisted of a three course meal, one bottle of rose wine and bottles of beer and water for a cost of 47 euros. (The meal was a curry which was exactly like you would get at home. After some of the rather bland meals we had been used to, the curry was a welcome diversion.)

The site is bordered by a river on one side and a huge bay on the other lined with many hotels. The view was reminiscent of Benidorm where the number of hotels have completely hidden the sea shore.

We stayed for three nights, which enabled me to catch up with the washing, and then moved on to a campsite near Amposta.

Camping Eucaliptus

We had a very difficult time trying to find this site. Although the directions were accurate, we felt they could have been more informative. There is an instruction on reaching the village of St. Jaume to cross the canal, signposted Els Muntells, and then turn left at the T Junction. This led us to believe that the T junction would be somewhere close to the canal crossing, so after driving aimlessly through featureless countryside, we turned round and headed back to St. Jaume. We then followed every left turn we could until darkness fell, and finally, in desperation, retraced our original steps and just kept driving until, lo an behold, we found a T junction barely four hundred yards from where we originally turned round. After this debacle, we found the site easily and turned in for the night.

The following morning, we walked down to the beach where there was a sand yachting competition. Some of the younger participants were pulling their smaller craft using a kite, which resulted in one little boy being led along by the kite, and totally unable to pull it down, and in fact, he was lifted off his feet a few times.

We then went back to the campsite which had a pleasant terrace and restaurant and backed on to a small lake containing some of the wild birds native to the area. It is a famous wetland, whose main crop is rice, and it abounds in all types of bird life including flamingoes. It is situated in the Ebro delta, a river famous for the size of its catfish.

We had dinner in the restaurant which again consisted of three courses, plus wine, beer and water, and again came to 47 euros. The food in Spain is simple but good, and the salads are excellent.

We then left the next morning to travel to Andorra.

Camping Valira - Andorra la Vella

First impressions are that this is a very crowded site, but as Andorra is very small, perhaps one should be glad there is somewhere for a motor home to park.

We got up early because we wanted to visit Andorra's famous Caldea Spa in which the water is from natural thermal springs and is a steady 32 to 36 degrees, a bit like swimming in a warm bath. There are numerous jacuzzi, turkish and steam baths, and you can bathe in an icelandic type of bath, wtih hot and cold water. We didn't bother with the cold one. We stayed in the water for about two hours and then had lunch in the complex. This cost around 12 euros for a three course meal, but was slightlyh more than the 24 euros as we had drinks etc.

We then went shopping in the countless duty free shops near the spa. Here you can buy anything from a statnav to a personal grooming set at very cheap prices. We bought some cigarettes, (we don't smoke - thee are gifts), but only the allowed amount which was good, because the border guards search every car for smuggled goods. They pulled us over and looked inside the camper before waving us away. We must look very law abiding.

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Seville

2008-04-10T22:33:32+02:00

Seville - Camping Villsom

Because of wrong instructions given in the Alan Rogers guide, (the exit from the NIV was given as 553 when it should have been 555), it took us some time to find the site, notwithstanding the efforts of our Satnav.

However, having driven through monsoon like conditions, we eventually pitched up in this city centre site, even though the city concerned, Seville, was 10 kilometres away. The wind howled and the rain poured all night, and every now and then, a seed from one of the trees dropped on to our camper roof which sounded like a gun going off. The weather in the morning had not improved so we wrapped up accordingly and took a taxi to Seville. This, I believe, was a costly error as the fare was 25 euros, but we did at least arrive dry, close to the cathedral, our main reason for visiting Seville.

Seville Cathedral

We had to pay an entrance fee (7 euros each), and then went through the turnstile to the shop. The admission desk, turnstile and shop are in a separate building adjoined to the main body of the cathedral. I bought two books, one on the Cathedral itself and another on Seville generally. This was money well spent, but we found out afterwards, that we could have had an audio receiver which gave a commentary in English on all the artworks and chapels

I am almost at a loss to find words to describe the magnificence of this cathedral. Around the FIVE naves, are countless small chapels, each housing a stunning work of art. There is a small display case announcing proudly that Seville Cathedral holds the world record for the footprint of the building covering the largest number of square metres. Indeed, looking round at the cathedral, one is overwhelmed with its enormity, astonished at the size of the huge organ decorated with countless thousands of wooden carvings, and amazed at the sight of Christopher Columbus’s tomb. The box containing his remains is borne aloft by four larger than life sized carriers. They are dressed in the manner of his time and appear to be walking forward, their stone clothes giving the impression of flapping in the breeze. There is some controversy regarding the remains as they have travelled back and forth across the Atlantic Ocean, so there was doubt as to whether the bones interred where in fact, Columbus’s. DNA tests were duly carried out and confirm that they are similar to his brother’s remains, also interred in the cathedral, so it would appear that the controversy has been settled.

There is another larger than life statue of the Virgin in solid silver to one side of the main nave, but then over the main altar is the most amazing reredos I have ever seen, and I have seen a large number of them. It is covered in gold, and I am reliably informed, houses over 1000 carved figures. It tells the story of Christ’s life from the meeting of Anna and Joachim at the gates of Jerusalem. (These legendary figures are reputed to have been the parents of St. Anne, mother of the Virgin.) The meeting at the gate is a reference to the fact that until then, St Anne had been barren. Joachim was therefore unable to sacrifice at the temple due to the fact that he was childless and therefore not permitted in Jewish law. Having been humiliated at the temple, he left Jerusalem to wander in the desert in prayer. St Anne met him at the gate to tell him she was pregnant and that the child would be a girl who would find favour in the sight of God. The little tableaux within the reredos go on to tell the story of the annunciation right through to the resurrection. The whole is topped by a small calvary.

After spending about two hours in the Cathedral, we braved the pouring rain to find lunch in one of the many restaurants scattered round the cathedral. After lunch we walked round to the Alcazar.

The Alcazar

This is a small palace built by the moors and saved from destruction by a Spanish monarch who wanted it for his own dwelling. At the entrance is a dedication to this king praising a famous victory. In Arabic, above this dedication, is the statement that.. ‘There is no victor but Allah.’ It is a credit to the monarch that this statement has been permitted to remain, and proof that Islam and Christianity were not always enemies.

This building is now home to the Spanish royal family when they visit Seville, and one can see why. There are many beautiful gardens with fountains and ponds surrounding the building, and one comes across surprising little courtyards which lend an air of tranquillity to a very busy place. Even though it is early April, there were still many visitors to this amazing little gem.

Each room opened into another, or led to a quiet airy courtyard. When it was possible to listen, the sound of birds singing and water playing in the fountains delighted once’s senses as too did the smell of orange blossom and other perfumes. The main buildings had covered but open walkways, like cloisters, along the front of them, held up by the most graceful marble columns in different colours.

We set off back to the campsite in the evening and decided to take the bus, as we did not want to fork out about 25 euros. It was still pouring with rain. We first of all turned right by the cathedral when we should have turned left, and after about half an hour’s walking, we discovered our error. We then turned round, walked back the way we came, all the time consulting our map which had been given to us at the campsite. We crossed a very busy junction, taking our lives in our hands and wading through standing water, and stopped to consult the map again, only to find that it had taken wings and flown away! However, Michael saved the day by remembering the name of the avenue where we should catch the bus and after locating this, we had a stroke of luck (we were about due one!) the right bus was at the terminal and we boarded. This was where our luck ran out! The bus driver must have been related to Alonso as he drove back to the site at breakneck speed whilst his passengers hung on for dear life. I shall write to the Spanish bus company and the Catholic church when I get back to England to suggest they put a priest on this chap’s busses to handle the large number people anxious to make their peace with God. We got back safely, though wet through to our skins and made preparations to leave for Granada the next day.

Granada
As we could barely see to drive and the rain had continued unabated, worse perhaps than yesterday, we decided to give Granada a miss, and press on to La Manga.
(A drive of 650 kilometres)

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title-3999722

2008-04-05T17:36:44+02:00

Orbitur Camping Valado - Portugal

We arrived here at around 5 pm, having stopped on the way to eat at a roadside café. Food was basic, but cheap (18 euros which included coffee, beer and wine.)
We chose this campsite because of the write-up in the Alan Rogers Guide to camping and caravanning in Spain and Portugal. The site is as stated, undulating, and it is quite difficult to get a flat pitch, but the shower and toilet block is superb with hot showers, and a marvellous baby bath arrangement in both the ladies and gents shower block. The site is close to Fatima, which is the object of our visit here.

Fatima
We arrived at around 2 pm, and had no trouble at all parking. The town is famous because of the visitation of an angel and Our Lady to three little children. There is a huge basilica which houses the remains of two of the three visionaries who died in childhood, shortly after the apparition, and a small chapel built over the place where Our Lady appeared. Around the basilica there are numerous cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops offering everything from statues of the Virgin which glow in the dark, to Rosaries, pictures of Christ which appear to open or close his eyes, large statues of holy personages, or one beautifully carved wooden Pieta, which I would have happily brought home if I could have afforded it, or indeed, had the space to house it.

We saw numerous pilgrims crossing the great square on their knees, praying the Rosary as they went, and in the Visionary Chapel itself, we were awed at the sight of a grandmother carrying her small grandchild, who orbited the chapel at least three times on her knees, praying as she shuffled along. The mother of the baby walked alongside her. It was a reminder that living in this secular world of ours, there are still people steadfast in their Christian faith.

On the way to Fatima, we passed a huge Monastery and church at Batalha, which we were only able to snatch a fleeting visit, as the main church was not open. We are going back today because it was just one of the most amazing buildings we have ever seen.

Batalha
The monastery and church were well worth visiting. It was built by King Joao I because of a vow he made to Our Lady following his victory over the Castillian army in 1385. After the dissolution of the Portuguese religious orders in 1834, the monastery was abandoned and therefore became dilapidated. In 1840 King Fernando II started the restoration which has continued to the present day. Unfortunately in his desire to return to the purest Gothic form, centuries of artistic expression was obliterated. The Tympanum and archivolt of the main door are decorated in flamboyant gothic style with countless figures from the Old Testament. There are also unfinished chapels which despite their amazing decoration are open to the elements. The cloisters are very beautiful indeed, and there is a huge fountain in the gardens bordered by them. The decoration of these is in a style called Manueline after Manuel I who reigned at the time. The tracery between them and in the stained glass windows throughout the church and monastery echo the pure Gothic, but also foretell the baroque.

We ate in a small restaurant close by, but once again, although this was obviously a high class restaurant, the food was very disappointing in content, although no complaint could be made about the quantity.

From Batalha, we went on to Alcobaca which also has a church and monastery, but we arrived too late to be allowed into the monastery and had to content ourselves with visiting the church only. The church consisted of a high central nave with two lower naves adjoining. There are a number of statues within the little chapels off to the side of the naves, (polychrome on wood) in a baroque style and one very old pieta. The church is noteworthy because it contains the bodies of two star crossed lovers.

From there, we went back to Camping Valado, and made ready to leave the following morning.

Evora
This is a mediaeval walled town, which we drove round inside the walls, but as the streets were very narrow and not suited to a motor home at all, we gave up and headed off to the next campsite on our route, Camping Markadia. We passed an Intermarche supermarket on the way and stocked up, and were able to buy food already prepared. We then had a magnificent lunch in the car park!
We drove through the plains of Portugal and along its wine route. Although I have tried very hard to find a palatable wine here, apart from Mateus Rose, the rest have been undrinkable. In fact, I have thrown better down the drain!

Camping Markadia - 1st April
First impressions are very favourable. We have a lovely pitch overlooking the very large lake and the owners have been very friendly and helpful.

This is by far the nicest site we have found so far. There is plenty of space between pitches, and the owners are dedicated to keeping the nature reserve theme very much to the fore. We have a rare type of magpie, (and lots of them) coming down to pick up bread which we have thrown for them, and to my astonishment, I have seen my first Hoopoe. Apparently they are common to this part of Portugal, and their hoo-hoo-hoo cry was heard all day and competed with the cuckoos which also seemed to abound.
Michael had no luck fishing, but enjoyed himself nonetheless. It has become very hot here, with the sun absolutely blazing down. I think it reached 27 degrees, but when the wind dropped, it felt much hotter. I got quite badly burned just walking to a little bar restaurant not far from the campsite. We had ham and cheese sandwiches served with a delicious salad, gin and tonic and beer which cost us 13 euros. Washing facilities at the site are excellent with very large shower compartments, plenty of hot water, and all very clean. On our last evening, the campsite restaurant opened and we had a super meal there - it was a dish of cod, potatoes, leeks and onions, topped with cheese. As is usual in Portugal, this was accompanied by a delicious salad and olives, bread and butter etc. Again we had beer and Gin and Tonic and the whole lot cost 27 euros. The view as the sun was setting was magical.
We stayed an extra day because of the wonderful weather, and the peace and tranquility of the site and reluctantly set off for Lagos.

The drive down was easy and we passed through some beautiful countryside. Here and there were high poles which had been established so that the local storks can nest on them. We were able to photograph one complete with sitting bird. When we saw them walking the fields, we were amazed at the size of them. After a couple of hours driving, we started looking for a place to eat and found a truck stop offering a menu with a dish of the day. We had chicken, chips and a really nice salad, two desserts, one coffee, one beer, one gin and tonic and a large bottle of water all for the sum of 15 euros!
We know where we shall be stopping next time we need to eat when on route.

On a general note, the campsites here in Portugal are very much cheaper than their counterparts in Spain. We intend to try some municipal sites when we get into mainland Spain to check out what is offered and compare the cost and quality to those we have already found courtesy of the Alan Rogers book.

Camping Turismo Bungalow Park
This is more of a holiday camp site with a lively restaurant and bar area, a very nice swimming pool and a shop which is open all year round. The reception staff are exceptionally helpful, and we have eaten in the little restaurant at lunch time. The dish of the day is 7 euros. This is excellent value for money, but if you go into the town of Lagos, the dish of the day there can be as low as 5.5 euros. However, the cost of the taxi must be borne in mind (about 10 euros one way). There are many shops, restaurants and bars, and street entertainment is quite abundant.

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We are off!

2008-03-28T15:39:39+01:00

Drove down to Plymouth and spent the night in the camper on the docks.
We travelled with Brittany Ferries on the Pont Aven which is quite the most luxurious ferry we have ever used. The food on board was very reasonably priced and the cabin was comfortable and we slept well. We arrived at Santander the next morning, which was Maundy Thursday in Spain and everything was closed. We were glad we had taken advantage of the good breakfast offered on the ferry. It was easy to find out way to the campsite at Candas (120 miles from Santander) due to our wonderful Satnav.
Our pitch overlooked th sea and there was a large breakwater from where Michael was able to fish every day, despite the rain. Facilities were clean and well organised and I was surprised by the number of flowers in bloom - although it seemed cold, the spring had arrived very much earlier than in England.

We spent some uneventful nights at Candas, waiting for the shops to reopen so that we could restock our larder. On Easter Monday, we found our way to the Port at Candass and found some restaurants open there. It was difficult to order food, as neither of us has any Spanish at all, but the food arrived and there was plenty of it. The cost for a plate of chicken and chips, wine, and beer was eighteen euros.
The next morning we tried to get into Oviedo to see the Camara Santa where the Oviedo Cloth is kept. We drove round and round and could find no parking spaces anywhere large enough for a camper, and neither could we find the church. We saw a few signs pointing to the Camara Santa, but however we tried, we could not find it. We gave up and decided to stay one more night at Candas, pack up to leave for Santiago the next morning, and try once more when we were on our way.
Once again, it was a waste of our time, with no shops open we were unable to buy maps or guides to Oviedo, and Michael dropped me off at a likely looking building, but it was the historical archive. We gave up and headed off to Santiago, a distance of 220 miles.
It seems that many of the large service stations in Spain also offer restaurant facilities, so we ate on the way and broke the journey with a very pleasant meal. We arrived at the site near Santiago in the evening, and found that the internet access promised, did not exist. However, we were ideally placed for the city, with a bus stop close to the site which took us directly into Santiago.
The Cathedral really is magnificent with a huge baroque reredos, dominated by bejewelled bust of the Saint. (Saint James whose relics the cathedral claim to house.) The story how the bones of Saint James were discovered in Santiago, is rather fanciful to our cynical 21st century ears, but the Cathedral has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries and it shows. There are countless restaurants, souvenir shops, bookshops and coffee bars in and around the cathedral, and it is easy to walk from one place to another, even it is raining, because of the covered stone walkways which look like medieval cloisters. We very much enjoyed our day there, but decided to leave for Portugal the next morning, because we were fed up with the rain which has followed us all the way from England.
From Santiago to Costa Nova in Portugal, was approximately 200 miles and the weather improved. We have sun and found a campsite cat to look after - Michael insists that I write that the cat found me rather than the other way round. She is very pregnant and therefore very hungry. She feels much better now with a tummy full of tuna and milk. We went to a very nice restaurant last night and I had a huge Seabass, Michael ate fried eels and followed with a T bone steak. Well, we were very hungry.
Tomorrow we leave here to go to Fatima.

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title-3957669

2008-03-28T15:06:47+01:00

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Preparations

2008-03-13T16:38:34+01:00

At last, we are actually loading our motorhome for the first leg of our european tour. We are members of every motorhome association we can find, have full recovery insurance anywhere in Europe, and two Satnavs, in case one fails, map books, tourist and campsite guides and feel sure we have covered every eventuality.
We intend to comment on the sites we visit, give mileages, prices of petrol and eating out, post photographs of monuments visited with details of facilities. As we have never done anything like this before, we hope we can be of use to anyone else contemplating such a tour.
I have a special interest in sacred art and architecture, and we are both keen anglers with a deep love for different landscapes. I shall also sample all the local wines in the areas through which we travel, in the hope of learning a little of the wines of Spain and Portugal.
We shall use paragraph headings, so those of you not interested in the subject covered can skip it.

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testing my blog

2008-02-28T12:49:29+01:00

testing my blog and email

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